Exploring Menton
The beautiful town of Menton, bordering Italy, looks like a postcard destination, yet maintains a peaceful balance for residents.
With it’s long promenade overlooking the sea, and friendly public beaches, Menton is an ideal relaxing destination for those wanting to be on the Cote D’Azur at a slower pace than Nice, Monaco or Cannes. Central to it’s attraction is the Old Town and the historic Halles Du Marche, built in 1898. Here, every day from dawn till lunch, some 40 stalls offer local produce of culinary delight. Fresh Fish caught locally, beautiful artisan tomatoes and vegetables, and some of the best daily bread will keep you coming back again and again.
One of the local delicacies are called Barbajuans, a little savoury fried pastry filled with goodness, which is also Monaco’s national appetiser. Just outside the halls themselves, but still under it’s shelter you could often find a mobile stall selling these as well as a few other finger bites. Often people would gather, waiting for a little steel and wood cart to be wheeled over with trays of freshly baked produce. On one day, after a longer wait than usual, the “marchand” gave me directions and sent me to the baker’s ovens and kitchen, in the heart of the old town to tell the chef to hurry up. Following countless twists through ancient narrow pedestrian alleyways, I arrived at what looked like an arched grotto with doors. The heat was intense and the baker had just loaded his cart, but the young lad who usually helped out had disappeared on an unplanned break. And so it was that under the watchful eye of and expert craftsman, and accompanied by his daughter, I wheeled the fabled cart full of Babajuans back to the halls to be met by a round of applause. I got first pick, and witnessed everything else being sold out within the blink of an eye. For authentic flavours and the best atmosphere, it’s worth rising early, and follow the locals. A small adventure might just await.
The following is based on a traditional recipe.
Barbajuans or Barbagiuan
Pastry Dough:
• 250g of flour
• 5g of Raising agent
• 350 ml of warm water
• pinch of salt
Mix all dry ingredients first, then gradually add the water while stirring with a spoon. As the dough forms, you will need to finish kneading it by hand, with help of a little olive oil. Then set it aside to rest.
Filling:
• 1 small cup of rice ( Approx 120g of cooked rice)
• 250g of tender Chard leaves, stalk removed
• 2 eggs
• 100g grated Parmesan cheese
• 3 chopped onions
• Salt/Pepper
The filling is quite easy to make. Cook the rice and set aside to drain and cool. Blanch the chard greens for about 10 minutes in water with a pinch of salt, then let drain and rest. Cook the chopped onions until transparent with a hint of gold then add the prepared chard, mix, then set aside to cool. Once all ingredients are cool, they are ready to all be mixed together with the raw eggs and parmesan and fill the pastry.
Roll out the pastry to a fine sheet ( down to n6 on a pasta machine) and then cut into slices 10cm wide.
On the strip of pastry, do 2 rows of teaspoon sized fillings, then cover with another strip of pastry.
Press down to seal the pastry then separate each row of 2 with a ravioli cutter wheel.
Pinch each end and twist the middle pastry to form what will look like a loose butterfly knot.
( You can also just make them individually as you would a regular ravioli)
Fry them in some hot oil, until golden. Typicaly 6 minutes in 2cm of oil in a deep frying pan, turning halfway through.
Enjoy warm or cold!
Of course you can add to (or replace) the chard with spinach. Ricotta cheese is also a popular add-on. Some people add to the filling a little garlic or parsley, and you could even add some ham or lardons, but the simpler recipe is more authentic.